Madrid is a city with a split personality.
To the average tourist, at first glance it might feel that the city lacks the vibrancy and energy of other European capitals.
Walk around in the early evening and the bars and cafes will be all but deserted, with just a scattering of tourists enjoying aperitifs or early dinners.
But after dark it's a whole different place.
Because once the tourists are tucked up in bed the Madrilenos come out to play, and the streets take on a party atmosphere.
While you can fill your days with sightseeing and visits to the world class art galleries, at night is when you can experience the real Madrid and start to truly get under the skin of the city.
While the beaches of Barcelona attract tourists in their swathes, Madrid remains comparatively quiet, and prices surprisingly low for a capital city.
Although there are the inevitable souvenir shops and restaurants with pictures of paella in radioactive hues designed to lure in unsuspecting tourists, it doesn't take much to find a more authentic experience.
If you're time is limited though and your Spanish far from fluent, one of the best ways to discover Madrid is on a tapas tour.
In one evening you can discover not only some delicious dishes, but also find out about the history of the city and dispel some myths about tapas.
Our guide for the evening was James, an expat from New Zealand who married a Madrilena, and has spent the past few years finding gastronomic hidden gems to share with tourists.
From a neighbourhood tapas bar, where only the locals know to ask for the Albondigas cooked in the family kitchen upstairs, to a sherry bar with dust coated bottles lining the walls, and staff who notch up your tab with chalk on the bar, we were introduced to a side of Madrid that with our inadequate command of the Spanish language might otherwise have seemed beyond our reach.
Don't let language be a barrier however. Although there's plenty of places where you'll find no-one speaking any English the Madrilenos are proud of their city and eager to show it off, so a smile and an attempt at a few words in Spanish will work wonders and you'll be made very welcome.
Madrid is small enough to explore on foot and you'll find that the best way to get a feel for the city.
Although there's plenty to see and do, it doesn't have the same "hook" as other capitals - like Paris with the Eiffel Tower, or Berlin's Brandenburg Gate - which means that instead of rushing from sight to sight ticking off a list, you can take your time to explore and discover places you might otherwise have missed.
An aimless wander lead to a blissful few hours in the sunshine, when we noticed a sign indicating that there was a roof terrace open at the top of Fine Arts Circle.
Three euro and a lift ride later we found ourselves on a sun drenched roof which wouldn't have seemed out of place in Miami, with music, bars, day beds and an unrivalled 360-degree view of the city.
Even if you're not an art buff, no visit to Madrid would be complete without a visit to at least one of the art museums. For classics, go to the Prado, or for modern art try the Reina Sofia.
Both offer free entry on certain evenings, an offer well worth taking advantage of. Unless you arrive early you'll find yourself at the back of a very long queue, but don't let it put you off. They move quickly and you'll still get in with plenty of time to get a good look around.
Next to the Prado is one of Madrid's most luxurious and exclusive hotels - the Hotel Ritz - which was inspired by the desire of King Alfonso XIII to create a hotel to rival the best in Europe.
Today the public areas are still palatial and laden with antiques, while the bedrooms are large, lavish and luxurious and the service is impeccable.
This is a hotel that oozes opulence at every turn, and while far from a budget option, staying here is an experience in itself.
While the hotel has 21st century touches like iPod docks and free wifi, old traditions still live on,like the pianist playing in the lounge throughout the day and evening.
But despite keeping at least a toe in the past, somehow the Hotel Ritz doesn't feel stuffy or overly formal, the staff are smiling and friendly and ever happy to offer help and advice and the traditions add to the charm of the place rather than detracting from it.
There's many reasons to visit Madrid, and a visit to the Hotel Ritz is certainly one of them.
Fact box:
EasyJet flies between Bristol and Madrid around four times a week from mid-November. Return flights will cost around £150 per person.
For more details or to book visit www.easyjet.com.
Relax before you fly in Bristol airport's Aspire lounge. Lounge passes cost from £17.49 per person and include drinks and snacks.
for more details visit www.bristolairport.co.uk.
Madrid Food Tours' Tapas, Taverns and History tour costs 95 euro (£80) per person and includes at least 10 tapas and four beverages, as well as lots of information. For more details visit www.madridfoodtour.com.
Rooms at the Hotel Ritz Madrid start from around 240 euro (£200) a night during November. For more details, special offers or to book visit www.ritzmadrid.com.
