"Raise the questions, but make of it what you want," spoke Benjamin Kirchhoff, half of the duo responsible for the label ("label – not brand") who made the fashion realm young again.
As part of Bath in Fashion, Benjamin Kirchhoff voyaged to Bath to enlighten us on the insignias and ingenuity of his label, while in conversation with renowned fashion critic and Vogue US contributing editor, Sarah Mower.
The event commenced with a screening of Meadham Kirchhoff's work – their latest collection intending to be celebratory of what has been done, and what there is left to do. Kirchhoff expanded and illuminated their 'theme' of the collection: "Everything we do is about variety and complexity of (observed) womanhood".
Design inspiration was cultivated from 1873 court dress and Elizabethan blackwork. Though fully established with an array of multi-cultural fans, Meadham Kirchhoff "is an on-going, and radically subversive, piece of work".
Meadham Kirchhoff is, resoundingly, dressing the young; as proved by their second dip into Topshop's teen-infested waters.
One may then think this strange as, though surrounded by the 'plastic age', Meadham Kirchhoff have yet to create a Twitter or Instagram page. Or, in fact, dress a celebrity or even capitulate to self-promotion interviews, or attend parties.
They are a label by which we hold dear of our own accord – we like their work because of their work, not because they are floating inside a creatively oppressed celeb lifestyle. In short, "it is important to be who you want to be… Do it for yourself, not anyone else – the rest of the world are just wannabes".
Benjamin Kirchhoff himself radiates cool, arty and philosophical vibes – a down-to-earth wallflower amongst fashion's radical beings. His first interest in fashion was formed aged four when confined to white-washed hospital walls.
When asked by his mother if he would want anything to assist him in his medical difficulty (a toy car? Lego? Puzzles?), he requested a bottle of perfume; and was presented (with some confusion on his mother's part), a bottle of 'Pour Monsieur' by Chanel.
Kirchhoff continually emphasised the importance of having presence, and also noted that scent is the first thing he notices about a person. Maybe influenced by this experience, Kirchhoff announced in his calming French-mixed accent that they are releasing 'Tralala', a new perfume by Meadham Kirchhoff; the packaging representing Valentine Cards and feelings embodied in them.
Kirchhoff was born in Chad, lived in Africa; moved to France during his teenage years and then travelled to London aged 17.
Echoed during confused teenage years were job prospects; and Kirchhoff chose to study philosophy – and then ditched it for his passion of fashion design.
He attended Central Saint Martins and studied menswear, when he first met Edward Meadham; who was studying womenswear. Their label sprang to life only a handful of years ago, and (in the words of Kirchhoff) their design studio in the East End, where the magic happens, is one "very large, very cheap shit-hole". The work that happens in this "shit-hole" has "something insane about it – we want to survive but not be boring".
The melody of Meadham Kirchhoff initially droned along to "miserable goth" (as described by Mower), before becoming the more ostentatious and elaborate collections we see today.
This change was due to a hate of labelling, and a new direction in design. Everyone had already seen the dramatic side of fashion – the product was left to reveal itself. So, Meadham Kirchhoff added tinsel to their thoughts and drew inspiration from the following: "glitter, pink things, tinsel, Marie Antoinette, Elizabeth Taylor, Elizabeth I and riot girls".
All the above women "represent something individual and international", and when questioned by Mower about his identity as a feminist, Kirchhoff panned the definition of the word, and implied that Meadham Kirchhoff "address the women in Western society, but do not label them".
That is their main gratification in fashion: not selling stories, getting recognition or selling; but seeing their influence and impact on the way girls view themselves. According to Kirchhoff, it presents himself and Meadham with a sense of relevance.
As Meadham Kirchhoff are still expanding their brand and simultaneously solving fashion's ambiguities about the future, they are deep-rooted enough in the industry to offer their valuable advice to the younger generation: "Don't enter into adulthood too quickly – make a visual point of view. Experiment, empower yourself, and f*** the culture who says you can't".
For more, read my blog: howtosurviveasafashionableteenager.blogspot.co.uk
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